Another “Pickup” Incident

 You have to be on your toes every minute of everyday here. Generally, it’s extremely safe in Addis. Actually, Addis Ababa is a great place to start for “The African Experience Virgins”. You only hear about opportunity crime. Just don’t get freaked out because that’s what criminals look for.

Yesterday I found myself in a bad situation. I was walking on Bole, the main street in Addis, by myself towards Zebra Grill for dinner with some friends. I had only been to the other location so I had to ask people where this place was located. During my walk, a charming young man approached me and started talking to me in English. He was one of the rare Ethiopians who did not mock Mandarin or call me, “China”. Moreover, he didn’t stick out his hand assuming I’d give him money because I was a foreigner (more on that later). I knew I wasn’t far from the restaurant, but I decided to ask him anyways just to make sure. One thing led to another, and I found myself turning into another road with this guy asking me for my number. Actually it was quite funny because he knew I wasn’t going to give him my contact, yet after acknowledging that he still persisted. Ethiopian men sure have high self-esteem or they’re just thick-skinned in general. Sorry folks, but I’m not looking for a “Habesha” relationship and I’m not married. Shocking! Anyhow, I knew Zebra Grill wasn’t down that road so I turned around and told him it wasn’t where ever he was trying to lead me to. Fortunately, during this whole 15 minute ordeal, I was able to keep the conversations lighthearted and I never felt threatened. I just felt annoyed that I had to put up with something like this again, the story of my life. Like if the situation wasn’t ridiculous enough, he bumped into his friend while we were turning back, so now there were 2 extremely confident Ethiopians following me. I appreciate “tasteful arrogance”, but now it was just getting really ridiculous. Miraculously I ended up bumping into another CIDA intern that I knew, seconds later the guys backed off. They probably thought he was my boyfriend or something – perfect. They even told my friend to take good care of me. Err ok. I told you I’ve had many Angels along the way.

The key to being a vigilante foreigner is to always survey your surroundings and know your general directions. Do not blindly trust directions given by others. Always remain polite unless aggression is absolutely required. More importantly, don’t take things personally and just laugh things off 🙂

I love it here, so I’m not going to let little annoyances and challenges affect my African Adventure nor change me for the worse. Let’s all strive to persevere through whatever it is that’s challenging us right now. We can do it!

Poor Ewazee must be wondering when I’ll give him a call.

Filed under: Africa, Canada, Ethiopia, Life, Thoughts, Travel, Addis Ababa, angel, CIDA, Ethiopia

A Rainy Sunday @ Kaldi’s aka Starbuck’s

Yesterday, my friends and I spent our Saturday night at a traditional Ethiopian Night Club, Fendeka. Honestly, I never knew the human body was capable of moving like that! Ethiopian dance is generally all in the upper body. The key is to have an extremely loose ribcage and shoulders. Last night’s dancers made Michael Jackson look like an amateur. Seriously, Ethiopian Dance is not only a beautiful art form but also it’s an incredible showcase of skill. And guess what, apparently I was really good for my first time out. Clearly, I can keep a beat. Well the beat is absolutely contagious and no matter how much you thought you wouldn’t dance, you end up clapping, dancing and yelling, “Sab…sab!” which means “Go….go…”. Actually, I’ll be joining a few friends on Fridays for private lessons from one of the dancers. 🙂

My dance teacher is really nice and he comes highly recommended. He invited a couple of us for a shot of Akerah later in the evening. It’s impossible to decline an invitation here, so I went and braved the infamous drink. Akerah is a traditional Ethiopian drink. I believe it’s something like 50% alcohol and it’s only available in unmarked bars. Usually, you need a local to take you because it’s nearly impossible to find these places. In this case, the underground bar was conveniently located right beside Fendeka.

We walked into a decent sized aluminum shack and immediately were greeted by curious glances and invasive stares. Other than the owner and her daughter, there was a table of 3 musicians in the corner. They were absolutely fascinated that they were about to witness a Chinese female down a shot of Akerah. As the owner cleaned out my glass and poured a colorless liquid into it, I realized I was quite nervous. It reminded me of that other infamous Chinese liquor, Mau Tau? Anyhow, the two of us and our dance teacher shot it back without any hesitation. It was tasteless and I didn’t feel anything until 10 minutes later. My stomach started to burn and things were getting a little dizzy. Other than that, the damage was minimal and it was definitely a bit overrated.

So remember how I was dreading my commute to work? I made it! I’ve taken the crowded minibus everyday for the past week! And I haven’t been robbed! These blue and white minibuses are basically small vans that usually carry a capacity of 11. However, it’s quite common to be crammed in one of these with a few more and some luggage among other things. Sometimes you sit in the back of a blue and white pickup truck. Ten or so pile into the covered rear of the pickup. It’s organized chaos. Surprisingly, they’re very efficient and a good way to get around town.

I will never get use to being harassed all the time by Ethiopians or being stared at by creepy Chinese engineers, but honestly I feel somewhat like a local now. It feels great to finally be independent. I don’t have to depend on being chauffeured around by my agency’s driver. I go out after work with some friends. I love to grocery shop. I love cooking. I love walking. I love and will continue to strive to become a local. I’m determined. Though the road ahead seems daunting, you just have to take each challenge one at a time. Don’t count how many challenges are awaiting you, rather just look forward to the next time you’ll learn something. If I can survive here, in Ethiopia on my own with a meager stipend from the government, anything is possible.

Filed under: Africa, Ethiopia, Life, Thoughts, Travel, Dance, Ethiopia

Harar Continued

So other than the monuments, museums, culture and the people in Harar, another popular attraction is to hand-feed Hyenas in the wild. Well I guess these animals were not entirely “wild” since they’re use to being fed everyday, hence they’re as domesticated as they could be considering they still live in the wild. Make sense?Hyenas are generally nocturnal animals. They spend most of the day just laying around in the sun and minding their business. But at night, these animals hunt and scavenge for food. Anyways, the 6 of us drove to the end of the walled-city after dinner and arranged for a man to attract Hyenas. The Hyena Man carried with him kilos of scrap meat and a wooden branch the length of a chopstick. We were in complete darkness – visibility was less than 1 ft. A storm was brewing in the distance and periodic cracks of lightning illuminated the beautiful and massive Shoa tree just before us. As the Hyena Man proceeded to yell, “Alle…alle…”, slowly but surely one after another Hyenas approached us. At one point there must’ve been 15 of them! One at a time, we crouched down by the Hyena Man and was instructed to hold the extremely short branch in our hands with a piece of meat on the other end. Then, all we had to do was literally feed the Hyenas. The Hyenas are actually very beautiful animals. They’re calm, peaceful and lovable at times. However during that night, all I could think about were the numerous Discovery Channel specials I had seen. They’re suppose to be dangerous and vicious carnivores! And I’m holding their dinner on a flimsy stick! So after saying a prayer, with extreme fear and curiosity I stuck out the piece of meat and watched the jaws of two Hyenas fight over it only inches away from me. I tried to flinch away but their jaws were holding on to the stick. Finally they let go. I looked down to check my limbs, they were still intact. What seemed like 10 minutes was probably just 1 sec. My photographs are extremely deceiving because I have a huge smile on my face, but that smile was all fear baby! The rest of the group were more adventurous because they tried to feed the Hyenas again, but this time with their mouths. Sorry, but I’ve got Chinese blood in me so I’m suppose to be conservative. No mouth action for me thank-you. I’ll just stand back and continue to be the designated photographer 🙂After a great night of Hyena-bonding, the girls headed for some traditional Harar culture. Our friends had arranged for us to visit Harari women and to receive Henna on our bodies. I just had a traditional design on my right hand and forearm. The swirls begin on my middle finger and twist all the way up to my elbow. Quite beautiful. It was nothing like our “Henna Tattoos” on the boardwalk. I’ve been officially Hennafied!We spent our last day in Dire Dawa, another culturally rich city. Our friends had arranged for us to ride Camels in the city! Apparently, we were the first foreigners to ride Camels from a tourist perspective so it was a huge deal to everyone. As we mounted our majestic Camels, we were instantly surrounded by locals. Children followed us around the streets as we marched further into the city. We were a parade of Foreigners – American, Canadian and Mauritian. Cute no?! Random people welcomed us and bystanders took pictures with their cellphones. Buses and cars slowed down to take a look at the commotion. It was dramatic! Now we just need the Key to their City!p.s. Riding Camels is really painful after a while… When you get off, you realize you’ve got a very butch walk. Attractive.

Filed under: Africa, Camel, Ethiopia, Harar, Hyena, Life, Thoughts, Travel, Africa, Camel, Ethiopia, Harar, Hyena, Life, Thoughts, Travel

Good Morning Addis Ababa!

It’s hard to believe I’ve been here for 2 weeks already. I think it’s probably because I had a 1 week vacation to Harar… gotta luv the Millennium holidays 🙂

Harar, an ancient mystical city 600km away from Addis, is a spiritual center for practicing Muslims. With hundreds of mosques and unique places of worship, Harar is seen as the Mecca of Ethiopia. I did not plan on going on an independent trip so soon, but once again I was blessed with an amazing opportunity. I learned that my coworker and her friends were renting a 4WD and their guide was a an Ethiopian friend! So 3 Feurenjis along with a driver and 2 Ethiopian friends set off to Harar for 5 days!

The 10 hour drive was incredible! A 4WD is a must, even if the roads are paved. For the first few hours, we drove through a dusty desert. The land was dry, the water holes were like sand pits, the sun was painful and the hot air was intense. Before long our vehicle stalled. Yes, in the middle of the desert we encountered our first challenge. We all got out of the car and pretended everything was cool, but I could feel the anxiety and tension in the air. Luckily after a few moments we were back on the road. Moments later, we were greeted by dozens of camels and a few Afar people.

Afar people are traditionally from a warrior tribe, hence they were all carrying AK47s. I suppose the guns were just a precautionary measure. Camels here are worth a lot of money. Their meat and ability to work are prized possessions. At first glance, I wanted to snap some action pictures of the cute animals, but my friend asked me, “Do you really want to take that chance Susan?” We have heard stories where tourists, no different from us, have been randomly shot at or had their cameras smashed. All I could think was one shot from any one of those guns would kill me. So, as we slowed down to allow the herd and warriors cross, I just smiled and kept my camera as low to the floor of the 4WD as possible.

The pothole-filled-Chinese-paved road took us through the dry desert and into the winding temperate mountains and valleys of Ethiopia. The temperature must’ve dropped by 10 degrees, but it was absolutely stunning! It was just as I had imagined. Since the rain season was just ending, everything was a perfect shade of green. And as the sun cascaded down through the clouds, the laddered mountainsides from farming were highlighted in a bright gold. I’ve always been in awe of Nature’s beauty, but to find such beauty in stereotypically bare land was just jaw-dropping. Then suddenly, we caught ourselves swerving uncontrollably on a tight turn just steps away from the cliff side. A flat tire – inevitable. Or as Tania puts it, “A flat flower”.

We all got out and our second challenge of the day brought us to an area where farmers and less aggressive tribes lived. The driver struggled to jack up the car but curious bystanders began to check out our small problem. The children and teenagers got down underneath the car and laid on the wet road and jacked the car up for us. We didn’t ask, they just did it. The driver realized he didn’t have the correct wrench. Luckily a passing pickup truck stopped and gave us theirs. So while we were momentarily detained, I took the liberty of capturing the beautiful mountains. It’s quite ironic how we managed to get a flat tire right at the perfect spot on the mountain for photos. It was a God-designated Kodak spot.

Perhaps I’ll save the rest of the trip for later. Until next time…

Filed under: Africa, Ethiopia, Harar, Life, Thoughts, Travel

2nd Millennium in a Lifetime

Who would’ve thought in my life time I would celebrate the Millennium twice! Ethiopia still follows the Julian Calender and is therefore is 7 months and a bit behind the rest of the world. Here, they use both ours and their traditional calender. So realistically, we’re all on the same page.

One of the reasons why I wanted to arrive in Addis Ababa in early September was for the Millennium Celebrations. I had no idea what to expect. I imagined myself partaking in a traditional ceremony of sorts and dancing the night away in front of dozens of campfires. On the contrary, I found myself among different circumstances.

First of all, I felt like this metropolis was under siege. Every ten steps I walked I was greeted by a member of the Federal Police of Ethiopia casually holding a very real and loaded AK47. There were snipers atop buildings and on every corner. I’ve never seen so many guns in my life before! It certainly put me on edge. Just imagine, one shot would send the streets and millions of people into chaos. Annoyingly, whenever there was an important guest driving through the streets, the roads would all be closed and even pedestrians were not allowed to walk. We had to stay still as the convoys whizzed by and covered us with dust. The city was basically shut down. My friend and I had to walk 3 hours before finding a cab. Even then, we were stuck in traffic for a couple of hours. I don’t really see the need to shut down the entire city for just a few guests who fly in for just one day. Then again, the current government is not the most favorable one.

There were many festivities and things to do. However, somehow I ended up attending a Millennium Party at a local Orphanage. It’s weird how God works sometimes. If you just trust wholeheartedly, you will just fall into the most remarkable things. I wasn’t even invited because the Director of the Orphanage did not like guests nor really had the childrens’ wellbeing in mind (most NGO’s here are not run by people who have the heart for the cause they’re advocating for – it’s a business). My friend just told me to show up with a friend of a friend who volunteers there. It was simply the best Millennium I’ve ever experienced and I feel so grateful that I was given a second chance to celebrate the year 2000 in the “right” way.

Though we were hours late for the party, the kids instantly greeted us with joy. I couldn’t believe it. They had never met me before, but hundreds of kids surrounded us with unforgettable smiles! They were all very fascinated with me because I was a Chinese female. I guess we are quite rare in these parts. Even more so because I’m Chinese-Canadian. Actually, they get quite confused when I tell them I’m Canadian. Anyhow there were these two girls, Betty and Rosa, that just clinged on to me for the entire evening. They hugged me, placed my arms around their shoulders, held my hands, showed me their dormitory, introduced me to everyone; and when they were tired, they sat with me on the stairs in a comforting silence. Sometimes, communicating effectively only requires silence. Though both these girls knew a little English, no communication was more effective than silence and simply acknowledging them. They kept on asking me if I’d come again tomorrow, the day after or even the following week. It hardens me so much because I could not promise them anything. So in return, they drew me a picture of the Ethiopian flag and I drew them a Canadian flag. I’m sad. I’m not sad for those orphans, but rather I’m sad for the Canadian children who have so much already and yet don’t realize how incredibly lucky they are. These orphans don’t have anything but one another and all they seek is something genuine. In order to flourish, all of these orphans only need a sense of acknowledgment and affection. God gave all children hopes and dreams, all we have to do is show them that people believe in them. That’s all.

Filed under: Africa, Ethiopia, Life, Thoughts, Travel

Reality

Traveling alone is definately a huge challenge, especially when most people don’t speak English and I don’t really speak Amharic. So for the past few days I’ve kept to myself.  I went to work for a couple of days and spent my Saturday within the Yordanos Hotel complex.  Well it’s hardly a complex, but with the non-stop construction for the addition right beside my window, I’m constantly reminded that it’s a complex-to-be. 

I decided that today was the day.  The day for some walking alone without the aid of coworkers.  My goal was 1km to Meskel Square, where all the Millennium Celebrations were slated.  With my camera in hand and my MEC fanny pack, I set off to experience the locals unsheltered and completely vulnerable. I was just steps into my exploration when I was greeted by a dozen piercing stares from the construction workers next door.  A lot of Chinese men have come to Africa to work in construction because there is a scarcity of “engineers”.  I heard them say, “Woman” through their smoke-stained smiles.   In all honesty, it was quite creepy.  If I had been somewhere else like North America, Europe or even China, I would’ve gave them a piece of my mind.  THAT’S RIGHT.  But here, in Addis Ababa, apparently harassment is “innocent”.  I was warned, but getting a dose of reality was a challenge in itself. I knew I would be stared at a lot.  Foreigners or “Feurenjis” are spectacles and Chinese females are rare.  While I was in the 4WD I was stared at all the time.  I’m getting  use to it.  You just have to ignore and frankly, keep walking with confidence and pretend you’re a Kung Fu Sifu.  Be a strong woman because they’re not use to that.  Oh man, I can’t believe I’m going to be walking and taking a minibus to work.  God protect me please. 

Anyhow, I continued walking towards Meskel Square.  There were so many moments when I found myself wanting to turn back and chicken-out.  It would’ve been so easy.  For example, when I could see in a distance a group of young men chatting in front of an aluminum kiosk/shack, or when I knew beggars were going to approach me, I wanted to take the easy way out.  I kept on telling myself, keep the brisk pace and be polite.  I was on survival-mode again – screw everything else and just get from point A to point B.  I totally forgot about how friendly Ethiopians were until a charming street kid ran up to me from the slums and shouted, “China…China!”.  His smile was absolutely captivating and I couldn’t help but stop and capture such a beautiful moment.  I asked for a photograph in my broken Amharic, “Hello, seulam!  Foto?!” He immediately struck a pose!  His friend ran up and posed for another!  I said,“E-shi” which means “ok” and showed them the photos.  They were so happy!  Even in extreme cases of poverty, they still have an undying spirit.  Their joy was infectious, and I realized at that moment I had to let go of my own stereotypes in order to enjoy my stay here.  Slow to judge, quick to tolerate and let the joy be infectious.

I continued to walk briskly and a few minutes later I found myself sitting on a wooden stool inside a local Cafe sipping on a hot cup of “Shai”, tea. There were 3 Chinese business people sipping and learning how to make coffee.  Although I was sitting beside them, they didn’t even acknowledge my presence.  That’s the thing here, it’s sad but so true.  If you’re White, you stick with the White.  If you’re of Colour, you stick with your Colour.  If you’re Chinese, you stick with your “Tung Baos”. lol In my case, I don’t look like a Mainlander, so they assume I’m not one of them or even Japanese.  The White crowd assumes I’m here to build and repair roads like all Chinese so they’re quick to escape any conversation.  People don’t believe I’m Canadian until I open my mouth.  But, often times when you get a chance to start talking, it’s too late because they’ve already labeled you as whatever they think you are.  I fall through the cracks just like in Canada, I’m a CBC with a FOB flare.  Reality sucks.  But what are you going to do about it?! 

On my way to Meskel Square I took some more photographs and met some more kids who were dying for their 10seconds of fame.  Some knew English, and some did not.  I was only rejected once by a woman washing a rag on the street with sewer water.  She must’ve thought I was a journalist or something and didn’t want to risk having her face plastered across the media.

 So the lesson of the day?  I made it to my destination and back!  However, I was quite out of breath when I got back to the hotel.  This thin-air business even makes a 1km walk a workout!  Not to mention I’m on the 3rd floor!  In all seriousness, you have to be vigilant when taking photographs.  Survey your immediate surroundings before you let your viewfinder consume you.  Acknowledge the presence of locals and don’t be afraid of interaction, even if you are alone.  Today was a baby step, in a weeks time I won’t have the luxury of being driven around by the agency’s driver.  I’ll have to get around on my own.

Filed under: Africa, Canada, Ethiopia, Life, Photography, Thoughts, Travel

On Ethiopian Soil

After my short 12 hr stay in Frankfurt and 24 hrs later, I am writing to you from the Yordanos Hotel in Addis Ababa.  First impressions include and are not limited to the following: controlled chaos, friendly people, crisp air, construction everywhere…wtf am I doing here?!  In all honesty, no preparation can prepare you for this.  You just have to dive right in! 

Bankfurt, I mean Frankfurt was a very beautiful, clean and  a cosmopolitan city.  The Airport was HUGE which was expected, considering it was ranked 2^nd in Europe.  I managed to wander around and also join a city tour during my layover.  The tour guide made the experience amazing!  He was so cultured and knowledgeable, not to mention easy-going.  Aside from myself, a Cape Town retired couple also joined the same tour.  When I told them I was heading to Ethiopia, they wished me luck and made sure I was aware that I was about to experience the “real Africa”.  Certainly, not what they were use to in South Africa. 

Addis Ababa reminds me a lot of developing cities in China.  You’ve got the slums right next to modern complexes, clouds of black smoke following cars and buses, plenty of street vendors and no respect for traffic laws/signs as we know it in the West.  You’re constantly reminded of the city’s attempt to transition into a developed hub, but also the reality is never too far away.  It’s a bizarre yet cool mix.

 I spent some time at the ANPPCAN offices for orientation.  There were more staff than what I had expected.  It’s a very friendly group!  I had my first cup of Ethiopian coffee, and it was so smooth and rich in flavour!   It’s finally hitting me.  I am going to be living in a developing nation for a good 6 months.  I am sooooo on “survival-mode” right now.  Not freaked out, but just on alert.

p.s. check out some pics on flickr

Filed under: Africa, Photography, Thoughts, Travel

.:Ready:.

Wow, I’m speechless! Yes me, speechless.

The overwhelming support and love that I’ve received is just incredibly touching. So touching, I was a mess smeared with tears and buggers across my face last night. 😉 I can only hope that the joy I’ve received from my friends and family will touch others through me.

I’m pretty much set. I had my last vaccinations a couple of days ago. In total, I had 7 vaccinations and they set me back $1000. All I have to do is some last minute photocopying and then the packing begins!

Training was a blast and I have a feeling I’ve made some life-long friendships. I’m as prepared as I’ll ever be. I just have to be vigilant and remember to take things as they come. I’m so grateful for all the “Angels” that have helped me along the way.

THANK YOU!

Filed under: Africa, Canada, Photography, Thoughts, Travel