Reality

Traveling alone is definately a huge challenge, especially when most people don’t speak English and I don’t really speak Amharic. So for the past few days I’ve kept to myself.  I went to work for a couple of days and spent my Saturday within the Yordanos Hotel complex.  Well it’s hardly a complex, but with the non-stop construction for the addition right beside my window, I’m constantly reminded that it’s a complex-to-be. 

I decided that today was the day.  The day for some walking alone without the aid of coworkers.  My goal was 1km to Meskel Square, where all the Millennium Celebrations were slated.  With my camera in hand and my MEC fanny pack, I set off to experience the locals unsheltered and completely vulnerable. I was just steps into my exploration when I was greeted by a dozen piercing stares from the construction workers next door.  A lot of Chinese men have come to Africa to work in construction because there is a scarcity of “engineers”.  I heard them say, “Woman” through their smoke-stained smiles.   In all honesty, it was quite creepy.  If I had been somewhere else like North America, Europe or even China, I would’ve gave them a piece of my mind.  THAT’S RIGHT.  But here, in Addis Ababa, apparently harassment is “innocent”.  I was warned, but getting a dose of reality was a challenge in itself. I knew I would be stared at a lot.  Foreigners or “Feurenjis” are spectacles and Chinese females are rare.  While I was in the 4WD I was stared at all the time.  I’m getting  use to it.  You just have to ignore and frankly, keep walking with confidence and pretend you’re a Kung Fu Sifu.  Be a strong woman because they’re not use to that.  Oh man, I can’t believe I’m going to be walking and taking a minibus to work.  God protect me please. 

Anyhow, I continued walking towards Meskel Square.  There were so many moments when I found myself wanting to turn back and chicken-out.  It would’ve been so easy.  For example, when I could see in a distance a group of young men chatting in front of an aluminum kiosk/shack, or when I knew beggars were going to approach me, I wanted to take the easy way out.  I kept on telling myself, keep the brisk pace and be polite.  I was on survival-mode again – screw everything else and just get from point A to point B.  I totally forgot about how friendly Ethiopians were until a charming street kid ran up to me from the slums and shouted, “China…China!”.  His smile was absolutely captivating and I couldn’t help but stop and capture such a beautiful moment.  I asked for a photograph in my broken Amharic, “Hello, seulam!  Foto?!” He immediately struck a pose!  His friend ran up and posed for another!  I said,“E-shi” which means “ok” and showed them the photos.  They were so happy!  Even in extreme cases of poverty, they still have an undying spirit.  Their joy was infectious, and I realized at that moment I had to let go of my own stereotypes in order to enjoy my stay here.  Slow to judge, quick to tolerate and let the joy be infectious.

I continued to walk briskly and a few minutes later I found myself sitting on a wooden stool inside a local Cafe sipping on a hot cup of “Shai”, tea. There were 3 Chinese business people sipping and learning how to make coffee.  Although I was sitting beside them, they didn’t even acknowledge my presence.  That’s the thing here, it’s sad but so true.  If you’re White, you stick with the White.  If you’re of Colour, you stick with your Colour.  If you’re Chinese, you stick with your “Tung Baos”. lol In my case, I don’t look like a Mainlander, so they assume I’m not one of them or even Japanese.  The White crowd assumes I’m here to build and repair roads like all Chinese so they’re quick to escape any conversation.  People don’t believe I’m Canadian until I open my mouth.  But, often times when you get a chance to start talking, it’s too late because they’ve already labeled you as whatever they think you are.  I fall through the cracks just like in Canada, I’m a CBC with a FOB flare.  Reality sucks.  But what are you going to do about it?! 

On my way to Meskel Square I took some more photographs and met some more kids who were dying for their 10seconds of fame.  Some knew English, and some did not.  I was only rejected once by a woman washing a rag on the street with sewer water.  She must’ve thought I was a journalist or something and didn’t want to risk having her face plastered across the media.

 So the lesson of the day?  I made it to my destination and back!  However, I was quite out of breath when I got back to the hotel.  This thin-air business even makes a 1km walk a workout!  Not to mention I’m on the 3rd floor!  In all seriousness, you have to be vigilant when taking photographs.  Survey your immediate surroundings before you let your viewfinder consume you.  Acknowledge the presence of locals and don’t be afraid of interaction, even if you are alone.  Today was a baby step, in a weeks time I won’t have the luxury of being driven around by the agency’s driver.  I’ll have to get around on my own.

Filed under: Africa, Canada, Ethiopia, Life, Photography, Thoughts, Travel